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First thing I would suggest, wash the engine, there is nothing worse than messing around with an old oily motor; also helps you spot missing bolts damage etc. When you wash the engine watch out for the engine numbers, the numbers are stamped on a plate which is located on the block deck surface [look between the injector pipes for the back two cylinders at the cylinder head-block joint], the plate is held on with aluminimun rivets. The aluminium rivets corrode and the plate falls off. I have blown several of these plates off with the pressure washer, first engine I found the plate on the floor after washing the motor.

If you need to do the head gasket you could do it now. I would opt to do the head gasket with the engine out as I am usually working on my own, it's easier to lift the head clear without banging the tips of the injectors if the engine is out. But it's easier to undo the bolts with the motor in place, you want a 6 point 15mm socket to undo them.

Unless your sure the cam belt was definitely replaced recently, replace it. A cam belt is around 15, if it breaks it makes a mess, you will wish you spent 15 on a new one.

I like to decide before I remove an engine what I will need to do to it, if it doesn't look like anything needs doing I just put a new cam belt on and install it. But most jobs aren't any more trouble with the engine installed anyway, plenty of access in a Landy.

Check the bolts that go in to holes in the block to hold the adapter and engine mounts, often the unused holes are rusty and you won't get a bolt in. You need a tap to clear the rust out. I have tried the bolt with a slot to clean threads and would suggest you just borrow a tap. If you don't have a tap I can lend you one, the threads in question are M10.

Check the fit of the alternator, engine mounts and fan belt. Remove the alternator and mounts prior to installing the engine though. See the fastener section for the fasteners to hold the adapter and mounts on.

Remove the power steering pump, if installed. Also remove the pulley for steering pump from the back of the cam. Remove the fuel filter head and the bracket holding it to the cylinder head.

if you have a central mounted heater and power brakes the vacuum line from the vacuum pump might interfere with the right hand heater hose. I pull the fitting out of the vac' pump[put the pump in boiling water and you can pull the fitting out with pliers] then cut and shut it so it points away from the heater fitting. I think if you were to cut new 20 mm holes in the bulkhead you could offset the heater an inche or so to solve this.

The turbo pressure pipe to the fuel pump will probably interfere with your inlet air pipe to the turbo charger. Either unscrew the fitting from the turbo and install it in the opposite hole in the turbo or block the hole in the turbo and install a fitting in the inlet manifold for the pipe.

The adapter should be checked to see the threads are clean, I do clean them but it's wise to check. Install the oil seal, the wiper needs to ride on a clean bit of crank, the seal should be pushed into the adapter so it's lower than the 'hub' in the centre of the adapter. You can glue the adapter on to the block with silicon, but sometimes they leak and you have to pull the engine out and have another shot at it. The van gasket is probably best, there is a differnece in the bolt pattern son cars and vans[the block has both patterns] used to hold the original car/van block plate in place. The van gasket will fit my adapter, if you use a car gasket it's probably wise to chop the top two bolt holes off the gasket and use the bits you chopped off to surrond the bolt holes each side of the upper dowel. This will prevent you bolting the adapter up unevenly.

After the adapter is bolted[and oil seal is fitted] on you can install the flywheel, use two M8 bolts in opposite clutch plate holes to hold, wiggle and manoeuvre the flywheel. Once the flywheel is torqued up you can install the clutch. Everyone says put a new clutch in when you swap an engine, I like to be contrary, if the clutch didn't judder and the plate still has plenty of meat on it I would put it back.

The adapter uses the original Land Rover bell-housing studs. You remove studs by winding two 3/8 UNF nuts on to a stud and tightening them against each other, then unscrew the inner one and if necessary put some force on the outer one to keep the nuts tight. If the stud doesnt come out like this warm the casting up, or buy a new set of studs[they cost a few quid a set].

If your on your own putting the engine in leave the top and bottom stud out of the adapter and substitute two long 3/8 UNC bolts with the heads chopped off and a taper ground on them. The long 'studs' will guide the adapter into place, when the motor is all in place you can remove the long studs and put the proper ones in.

****** I am still making adapters ******

I have missed some phone calls, please use email if the phone isn't answered. 25th November 2012.

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